How to renovate a lawn
(April 15- May 31 good, August 15th to September 30th, best.)
1. Have a professional soil test performed. This is the MOST important, least
expensive step of the whole renovation process. It determines the pH of your
soil, and how much limestone you will need to adjust the soil to a level ideal
for growing turf
2. Determine if your lawn is composed of more than 50% weeds (not
crabgrass), or contains noxious weeds such as violets. If it is more than 50%
and or contains noxious weeds, KILL the entire lawn with a product  like
Roundup, or Burnout ll. Wait for the amount of time stated on the label before
starting the renovation.
3. Mow low before proceeding to the following steps.
For those who killed the entire lawn,
skip to 5.
4. Rent a professional core aerator and aerate the entire lawn in two
directions, creating an 'X' pattern. Spread the amount of pelletized limestone
specified by the soil test, over the entire lawn area.
Skip to 7.
5. Rent out a power rake (dethatcher) and a core aerator. Alternately, you
can rent out a sliceseeder and a core aerator, but the sliceseeder is painfully
slow.
6. Power rake the entire dead lawn area until the dead turf and limestone are
homogenized. This will not change the grade. Core aerate creating an 'X'
pattern.
7. Use a cyclonic spreader to distribute the desired grass seed. Spread in an
'X' formation, making sure to cut the suggested amount ont he grass seed
bag in half.
8. Fertilize with a starter fertilizer. In the spring, consider also using 'Tupersan'
to inhibit crabgrass growth. You WILL get crabgrass with spring renovations.
Don't panic.
9. Keep seeded area moist constantly for two to three weeks. Achieve this by
watering for 10-15 minutes three to four times per day over the entire area.
10. Seed will begin to germinate in as little as 3 days an as long as 28 days.
11. Expect to mow when the lawn is 3" tall.
Depth of Mulch
FORMULAS:
Area of a circle        Pi x R²  
R=4’ =  3.14 x 4²  =  3.14 x 16  =  50.24’  =  50’ 3” sq ft.
Circumference of a circle        PiD
R=4’   =  D=8’  =  3.14x 8  =  25.12 =    25’ 2” sq ft
Volume of a cylinder        Pi R² x H
R=4’   H=10’  = 3.14x16x10  =  502.4  =   502’ 5” sq ft
Area of a rectangle        L x W
L=4’   W=6’   4’x6’ =    24’ sq ft
Area of a triangle        ½BH
B=4’  H=10’   2’x5’ =   10’ sq ft
MULCH COVERAGE CHART
This chart indicates coverage in square feet
Cubic
Yards
1"
2"
3"
4"
5"
GROUND COVER SPACING GUIDE
Variety
Spacing on
Center
Plants per sq. ft.
Ajuga
12"
1
Arctostaphylos
12"
1
Euonymus
coloratus
6"
4
Euonymus
coloratus
12"
1
Baltic Ivy
6"
4
Baltic Ivy
12"
1
Pachysandra
4"
9
Pachysandra
6"
4
Vinca
4"
4
Multiply your square footage by  plants per sq. ft.
PRUNING GUIDE
Early spring:
Late spring / early summer:
Summer:
Fall:
Winter:

Pruning in early spring before
new growth begins allows the
plant to recover quickly and
stimulates new growth.

Prune spring –flowering shrubs
immediately
after their blossoms fade. Pinch or
trim one-half of new candles on
pines
and other needled evergreens.

Pruning fast growing hedges
can subdue their growth.
Summer pruning can be
dangerous.  The newly
exposed tissue may be
scorched.

Fall is not a good time to shear
plants. It encourages new
growth that may be killed by the
cold. It is okay to thin plants or
prune plants that have gone
dormant.
If you prune “spring
bloomers” in the winter, it
will not bloom that spring.
Most spring bloomers
flower on last years spring
growth.
What to Prune:
What to Prune:
What to Prune:
What to Prune:
What  to Prune:
Summer flowering trees &
shrubs that    bloom on new
growth. Non-blooming
broad-leaf evergreens.
Spring flowering shrubs Pines and
needled evergreens.
Deciduous or evergreen
hedges.
Dogwood, Maple, Walnut,
Summer flowering shrubs &
trees as blossoms fade
N.A.
Deciduous trees & fruit
trees.
Deciduous shrubs that  DO
NOT flower in late winter or
early spring.
Watering
Instructions
Water early morning or
early evening.  
Soil conditions and extreme
changes in temperature, have
and effect on how much and how
often to water. A general rule to
go by is as follows:
April, May and June:
water every 3rd day to 2x a week.
July, August and September:
water every other day
to every third day.
October and November:
water every third day to twice a
week
Inspect plants periodically
for any changes.  
Notify Blueview Nurseries
with any concerns.  
Thank you for making us
part of your garden experience.
Planting Instructions & Plant Care
When handling plants, carrying the plant by the root ball or pot
NEVER by the plant.
Always plant shrubbery at least three (3) or more feet off the
foundation and never under overhangs.
Place plant(s), spacing should be four (4) to five (5) feet apart
measuring center to center of root ball. Step back to see if location is
appealing.
Mark spot: Measure the depth and the diameter of root ball. Move your
plant and dig the hole.
Make the width eight (8) to twelve (12) inches wider than the root ball.  
Maintain this width until you have reached the measured depth. The
depth should be four (4) to six (6) inches deeper than the depth of the
root ball.
Add enough of your backfill until the depth is now equal with the depth
of the root ball. Backfill may consist of loam compost mix, or a
commercial tree and shrub planting mix.
DO NOT ADD ANY FERTILIZER!
Place your plant in the hole with best side forward.
Balled and burlap material:

Cut and remove strings and all or as much burlap as possible.  Wire
cages do not have to be removed. Bend the top loops down so they
are not exposed.  Make several vertical slices in any remaining burlap.
Potted material:

Remove pot. If root system is bound, with a sharp knife make vertical
slices every inch or so to promote root growth.
Fill hole with water.  When water level has fallen, fill with backfill.  
Tamp down so ball is tight and won’t shift.  Soil should be level with
top of ball and surrounding area.
Build a soil saucer four to six inches high around base of plant to
retain water.
Mulch with a one (1) to (2) inches of peat moss, bark mulch, pine
needles or compost.
DO NOT mound up your mulch around the base of the trunk, may
cause trunk to rot.
See separate watering instructions on this page for continued care.
●HYDRANGEA●



Moisture is a necessity or plants wilt and
die.
PRUNING:
Pruning hydrangeas is an art and one
must know the
requirements of each type.
Most macrophylla species flower from
buds set on the previous
season’s growth. Prune right after
flowering.

NO FLOWERS?
Winter can kill the flower buds and plant
will not flower.
Improper pruning will remove flower buds.
Hydrangeas growing in deep shade may
fail to form flower buds

COLOR
Color on some cultivars is strongly
affected by soil pH in which
They are growing. The bluest shades are
always produced on the most acid soils.
Adding aluminum sulfate to the soil, ½
ounce per 6” diameter pot, will induce blue
coloration.  Cultivars listed as pink,  may
be a little more difficult to change to blue.


‘ENDLESS SUMMER’
This macrophyllia cultivar is the first to set
bud on current and previous seasons
growth which provides gorgeous color all
season. Grows in partial sun, well drained
soil. Regular watering is necessary to
prevent wilting. Mature height  of about 3
to 5’
©2016 Blueview Nurseries, Inc. 200 Bay Rd. Norton, MA  02766 (508) 230-2139 Fax (508) 230-2143
Blueview@blueviewnurseries.com  Website designed, created, and managed by Hort Marketers.
1yd.  
325
163
109
82
65
2yds.  
650
326
218
164
 
3yds.  
975
489
327
246
195
4yds.  
1300
652
436
328
260
5yds.  
1625
815
545
410
325
6yds.
1950
978
654
492
390
7yds.  
2275
1141
763
574
455
8yds.
2600
1304
827
656
520
9yds.
2925
1467
981
738
585
10yds.  
3250
1630
1090
820
650
Blueview Nurseries
Charts and How to's